There is considerable labor and time involved in progressing from design to finished jewelry piece. Casting, where feasible, is a method for reproducing a piece exactly, rapidly, and inexpensively. A mold is made of the model diamond jewelry piece, using a special fine sand mixed with water and glycerine. The mold is divided, the model is removed, the mold is reassembled, and molten metal is poured in through an opening previously prepared for the purpose.
When it cools, the new cast is taken out, excess metal removed, and finishing touches made. This kind of casting can only be done if the model is relatively simple and has no undercuts.
A far better casting process, especially for very accurate reproduction of delicate pieces, or those of some complexity, is the “lost-wax” method of centrifugal casting cushion cut diamond rings. The metal object to be reproduced is first copied exactly by making a rubber mold. In turn, the mold is used to make one or several copies in wax.
The wax commonly used is similar to dental wax, with a melting point between 150 and 170 degrees Fahrenheit. Casting waxes are available in blocks or partially formed rings from which a model of a jewelry piece can be created directly by filing, sawing, and carving. The wax is much easier to work with than the metal itself. By either route—rubber mold or direct work in wax—the wax model is prepared, embedded in a plaster-of-Paris and silica mix to form a new, high-temperature mold. This is now heated in an oven to about 1300 degrees Fahrenheit. The mold hardens princess diamond wedding ring, and the wax melts and runs out. To insure complete penetration and casting of every detail when the molten metal is poured in, the mold and its contents are spun in a small centrifugal machine. This packs the metal into every fine detail of the mold made by the “lost wax.” If carefully done, the finished casting requires very little filing or trimming when it is removed from the mold.

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